---
title: "Cooktops and rangetops"
description: "Monogram cooktops and rangetops: two appliances that people describe with the same word."
url: "https://monogrammiami.support/appliances/cooktop/"
date_modified: "2026-09-02"
Appliance type: "Cooktops and rangetops"
---


# Monogram cooktops and rangetops

### Cooktop and rangetop are not the same appliance

It is worth being precise, because it changes the repair. A cooktop is a surface set into a counter with cabinetry or a drawer beneath it. A rangetop is a professional cooking appliance with a finished front, its controls on that front, and usually a wall oven underneath. Monogram makes both: deep-recessed gas cooktops and induction cooktops in 30 and 36 inches, and 36 and 48-inch professional gas rangetops with four or six burners and griddle options.

### Gas: what fails and what only looks like a failure

Continuous clicking after a burner has lit is moisture, and in a Miami kitchen it is seasonal. A single burner that sparks but will not light is usually a cap seated wrong after cleaning, then the igniter. A burner with a lazy yellow flame is a port that needs clearing. The deep-recessed design Monogram uses contains spills better than a flat top does, which is a genuine advantage here, but it also means a spill that does get under a cap sits there rather than evaporating.

### Induction: heat is the enemy of the electronics

There is nothing to burn out and nothing to ignite. Under the glass are coils and the power modules that drive them, and those modules are cooled by a fan through a defined air path. Block that path — a drawer packed to the back, an installation with less clearance than the specification asks for — and the zones start protecting themselves by dropping power. That reads to the cook as an appliance getting weaker, which is exactly what is happening, and it is worth catching before the module fails outright.

### Before you book

Model number, gas or induction, cooktop or rangetop, and which position or positions are involved. If it is induction, try a pan you know is magnetic on the failing zone first — that one test settles a good share of these calls without a visit.

Deep-recessed gas · induction · 36 and 48-inch professional rangetops

Cooktop repair

Gas and induction cooktops, 30 and 36 inches

36 and 48-inch professional gas rangetops with griddle options

Induction problems are electronic and heat-related

Cooktop and rangetop are not the same appliance

It is worth being precise, because it changes the repair. A cooktop is a surface set into a counter with cabinetry or a drawer beneath it. A rangetop is a professional cooking appliance with a finished front, its controls on that front, and usually a wall oven underneath. Monogram makes both: deep-recessed gas cooktops and induction cooktops in 30 and 36 inches, and 36 and 48-inch professional gas rangetops with four or six burners and griddle options.

Gas: what fails and what only looks like a failure

Continuous clicking after a burner has lit is moisture, and in a Miami kitchen it is seasonal. A single burner that sparks but will not light is usually a cap seated wrong after cleaning, then the igniter. A burner with a lazy yellow flame is a port that needs clearing. The deep-recessed design Monogram uses contains spills better than a flat top does, which is a genuine advantage here, but it also means a spill that does get under a cap sits there rather than evaporating.

Induction: heat is the enemy of the electronics

There is nothing to burn out and nothing to ignite. Under the glass are coils and the power modules that drive them, and those modules are cooled by a fan through a defined air path. Block that path — a drawer packed to the back, an installation with less clearance than the specification asks for — and the zones start protecting themselves by dropping power. That reads to the cook as an appliance getting weaker, which is exactly what is happening, and it is worth catching before the module fails outright.

Before you book

Model number, gas or induction, cooktop or rangetop, and which position or positions are involved. If it is induction, try a pan you know is magnetic on the failing zone first — that one test settles a good share of these calls without a visit.

### The igniters click continuously even after the burner lights.

That is moisture or debris in the switch or around the igniter, and on a gas cooktop in this climate it is one of the most common calls of the year. A boil-over that went under a cap, a wipe-down that put water where it should not be, or simply an August week with the doors open will do it. It often settles once everything is properly dry — leave the caps off and give it a day. If it persists it is the switch or the module, which is an ordinary repair, but the clicking should not be ignored because a spark module running constantly is not a state it was built for.

### One induction zone has stopped working.

First rule out the cookware — a magnet that will not stick to the base of the pan means the zone is behaving correctly. If other pans work on other zones and not on this one, the coil or the power module under that position is the suspect. If several zones on one side have gone at once, it is more likely the module that drives that side, or the cooling that keeps it alive: these modules sit in a confined space under the glass and reduce power or shut down when they cannot get rid of their own heat.

### What is the difference between a rangetop and a cooktop for repairs?

Access, mostly, and it changes the visit. A cooktop is dropped into a counter cutout and lifts out from above once it is disconnected. A rangetop is a professional appliance with a finished front and controls on that front, slotted into a cabinet run and often sitting over a wall oven. Getting into one is a different operation, and the surrounding installation — the cabinetry, the oven below, the gas line — is part of the job. Tell us which you have and we will bring the right expectations.

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